Part of our morning and evening routines involve a skincare regimen of applying serums, moisturizers, lotions, and the like. We do this to combat acne, signs of aging, and to maintain beautiful glowing skin! It’s safe to assume, however, due to our hurried lives, that some of us haven’t put much thought into what is in the products that we are using. How can we be sure we are using the very best products on our skin to keep it clear and healthy?

7 tips in this skincare vetting process:

1. Read the label, and know that ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration.

Ask yourself, what are the top five ingredients? The top five will be the most concentrated in the product. Just because the newest serum says it’s “dermatologist-tested” does not mean that product is effective. For all we know, it could have been tested by a dermatologist and then rejected due to watered-down ingredients! This is a tactic companies can use to attract consumers to buy their products.

Reading the label can also help you understand exactly what you’re putting on your skin. A little extra research will help if you’re seeing ingredients that sound scary, but may actual serve a purpose. For instance, cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol are what are known as fatty alcohols. Don’t let the word “alcohol” cause alarm, because these are helpful alcohols that act as emulsifiers and stabilize other ingredients in the product. They help soften the skin while holding together all the ingredients in your product to make them more effective. These ingredients are often derived from coconuts and other hydrating plant-based sources. Sometimes doing the extra research is worth it!

2. Look for products that contain vitamins that are both anti-acne and anti-aging, like Vitamin C or Niacinamide, which is a form of Vitamin B3.

Vitamin C can help neutralize free radical damage to the skin’s surface. Not only do free radicals wreak havoc on the skin by inducing signs of premature aging, they can also trigger pimples to form (due to the skin’s inflammatory response).

Niacinamide is another ingredient that has incredible benefits. It has brightening effects that can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation on the face. Niacinamide can also help regulate the natural oil (sebum) that the skin produces, and in turn reducing breakouts from clogged pores. 

3. If you’re looking for a moisturizing product that won’t clog pores, be sure to look out for ceramides and hyaluronic acid.

Both ingredients are naturally found in the skin and are safe for acne-prone skin. I prefer hyaluronic acid in serum form, while I look for ceramides in emulsifying toners and lotions.

Ceramides are fatty acids that help strengthen and restore your natural skin barrier. Hyaluronic acid is an all-time favorite because this hydration powerhouse can hold up to 1000x its weight in water, plumping the skin with moisture, so it looks soft, smooth, and more youthful without any oily residue.

4. Look for peptides.

Peptides are amino acids that are the building blocks for key proteins that help your skin looking youthful and plump. They make up proteins like collagen, keratin, and elastin – all of which are crucial for maintaining a glowing complexion and for supporting your collagen matrix.

Look for peptides in eye creams, serums, and moisturizers. Usually, the product will indicate that it has a “peptide complex”, but sometimes they will have more specific names like copper peptides, hexapeptide-1, tripeptide-1, or other names with “peptide” attached.

5. If you’re concerned about exposure or irritation due to chemical ingredients, stick to a mineral sunscreen.

Mineral sunscreens reflect rather than absorb broad spectrum ultraviolet radiation. The two ingredients you should look for are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. 

Make sure you choose a minimum of SPF 30.

However, be sure to do the math in calculating the actual SPF on your own. For every one percent of zinc oxide, you get 1.6 SPF units. For every one percent of titanium dioxide, you get 2.6 SPF units. For example, let’s say you have a mineral sunscreen formula with 20 percent zinc oxide. Since every one percent of zinc oxide gives you 1.6 SPF units, that means the product actually has an SPF 32, which is an ideal level of daily protection.

6. Look for retinoids, which are the gold standard for anti-aging products that help reduce breakouts.

It helps to know the difference between Retinoid vs Retinol. Both of these words are often used interchangeably but are not necessary the same thing. Retinoid refers to the entire group or family of vitamin A derivatives, including over the counter products and prescription grade treatments. Regular use of retinoids can give you visible improvements such as fewer fine lines, firmer skin, more even skin tone and fewer breakouts. Retinol, on the other hand, is the name of one specific type of retinoid—the most common and proven retinoid sold over-the-counter. 

Prescription retinoids are more potent and include Adapalene, Tretinoin, Tazarotene, and Trifarotene. They can also cause more redness and irritation, so it’s best to use a pea-sized amount and to start slowly.

Isotretinoin, also known as Accutane, is a prescription retinoid that you take orally. This was the “last resort” acne medication prescribed to me by my dermatologist with risky side-effects that ultimately didn’t work. If you’re considering the oral route to combat acne, I highly recommend our free course, where I share natural supplements backed by clinical evidence to help acne patients.

7. If possible, use products that are paraben-free.

Parabens are synthetic chemical preservatives that are widely used in personal care products such as facial masks, skin lotions and creams. They also are typical ingredients used in baby lotions, shampoos, and other personal care products for infants and children. In addition, parabens are in many foods and pharmaceutical products.

Researchers are beginning to find parabens in benign and malignant human breast tumors. While some studies have challenged their toxicity in many products and question their long-term effect on humans, using products that are paraben-free can eliminate the risk of exposure to this harmful chemical.

Featured photo by Birgith Roosipuu on Unsplash